REQUIRED TOOLS

Installation of our aluminum decking packages require a few basic tools, as well as a couple specialized tools. Below we have provided a list of everything that you'll need, as well as a part numbers and links to where you can get the specialized tools from McMaster, which is a reasonably priced industrial supplier. Click on the part number to view the item on the McMaster website. Many customers will already have the majority of these tools, if not all of them. These tools (other than perhaps a rivet gun) should be stocked at your local home supply or hardware store as well. Please see the section below for rivet gun recommendations.

3/16" hex key wrench McMaster PN: 7122A47
7/16 box wrench
11 Gauge drill bit McMaster PN: 30585A22
1/4" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A27
7/16" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A41
3/4" countersink bit (optional) McMaster PN: 2846A39
3/8" standard electric drill
1/4" right angle drill
3 ratchet straps
3-4 C-clamps
Rivet gun
Tape measure
Carpenter's square
Steel hammer
Rubber/plastic mallet (optional)
Center punch McMaster PN: 3451A31
Fine point marker





RIVET GUN RECOMMENDATIONS

Decking kits for our boat and raft kits with 18" wide floats require anywhere between 58 and 142 rivets be installed from under the deck. The rivets are 3/16" diameter (pull pins are considered 1/8" - actually measure 0.12"), 18-8 stainless steel, which is a tough material, and requires considerable force to install. When installing one of our decking packages, we strongly suggest a powered rivet gun, or at least a rivet gun with long handles if using a manual tool. Can you assemble one of our kits with a simple one-hand manual rivet gun? No. The reason is that you have to be able to reach into the recess of each hat channel crossmember to install the rivets, so that simply won't work. If you don't already have an appropriate rivet gun, we've provided a couple recommendations. Click on the pictures to be brought to supplier links for either option.

PITTSBURGH TOOLS MODEL 58612:

If a powered rivet gun isn't an option, a 2-handle manual unit is the way to go. It's able to reach installation locations on our kits and the 2-handle design allows you to have the leverage needed to install our stout rivets. We like this model hand riveter as it has long handles and is reasonably priced at Harbor Freight. For some boat kits, you may have to remove floats to reach the outermost decking rivets.

CAMPBELL HAUSFELD MODEL TL053900:

This is the rivet gun that we use here at Tiny Pontoon Boats and it's never let us down. Other brands and models will work just fine, but we really like this gun. For the outermost rivets for our decking kits, the white plastic pin catching cup has to be removed, but this doesn't hinder the use of the gun.

STEP 1

Please be aware that this set of instructions covers our full line of boat and raft kits that use our 18" floats. Any required procedural variation will be pointed out as we move forward.

Place your frame and float kit in a flat area and wipe the top of the crossmembers with a rag to ensure there's no debris from the frame assembly. During the installation of your decking package, you will have to go under the boat to drill holes and install many rivets, so if possible, we recommend putting the boat on spacers to raise it off your floor or work area to make the project more comfortable. When we build our small boats, we use a set of pontoon boat storage blocks from Pontoon Stuff.

STEP 2

Place all of your aluminum deck planks on top of your boat or work platform and number the planks 1 through 9 with a marker as shown to the right. Move your crossmembers to one end of the boat slightly and write the same numbers on the crossmember nearest the end you wrote on the deck planks. Lacquer thinner will wipe off the ink on the deck planks after assembly, or you can write on painter's tape and peel off the tape when completed. Place the deck planks aside for now.

DECKING FASTENER DIAGRAMS:

Before moving onto step 3, find your boat kit listed below and click on the link to view the required decking fastener diagram. If possible, print the diagram or have it handy on a mobile device as you will need to reference it throughout the rest of the installation process. On your diagram, there are blue and red squares (we call them dots in some places) and the color of the square indicates which fastener to use and where it goes. You will note that the two outer planks on all the boat kits have bolts and rivets going through every crossmember, but inner deck planks have staggered rivet positions. Following the applicable diagram is very important, and ensures that your boat's frame retains it's full strength when completed. Remember, you can't undrill holes, so take your time and be certain that you're following your diagram. If you print your diagram, it's easy to check off rivets and planks as you go.

For those with single-nose boat kits (6'x11' and 6'x14' models) and blunt-end work platforms (6'x6', 6'x9', and 6'x12' models), you will NEVER drill into a square tube crossmember. Dual-nose boat kits do not have square tube crossmembers.

Single-nose pontoon boat kits:

6'x11' single-nose boat kit

6'x14' single-nose boat kit

Dual-nose pontoon boat kits:

6'x10' dual-nose boat kit

Blunt-end work platform and swim raft kits:

6'x6' blunt raft kit

6'x9' blunt work platform

6'x12' blunt work platform

STEP 3

On the side of your craft where plank 1 goes, mark a line across the top of every hat channel that is 7 1/2" in from the end of the crossmember. Do not mark on square tube crossmembers if you have them. We like to use a combination square for this.

STEP 4

At the center of each line you just drew on top of your hat channels, use a center punch and a hammer to make a small divot. Using an 11 gauge drill bit (0.191" diameter), drill through every hole position you just marked on your hat channels.


DEBURRING HOLES

During your assembly, you will be drilling a ton of small holes. It is very important to debur each hole that you drill. Be certain to debur holes you drill in crossmembers and deck planks as mating surfaces can't have anything between them. When we build boat kits here at Tiny Pontoon Boats, we like to use a small countersink drill bit to debur holes (listed in the "REQUIRED TOOLS" table above), but you can also use a little bit of sand paper or a file. We will not stress the importance of this step again, but deburring is very important during this process.

STEP 5

Place plank 1 back on your boat and line it up so that it's even with the corner of your square tube crossmember or crossmembers (blunt work platforms have two), or even with the very end of your frame as a whole for dual-nose boat kits (will be centered end-to-end on the craft). If lining up the deck plank on a dual-nose boat kit, a square helps accomplish this alignment. Ensure that the plank's outer edge is even with the ends of your crossmembers and clamp it into position with 2 or 3 C-clamps.

STEP 6

Measure and make a mark 5/8" in from the outer edge of your deck plank centered above each hat channel crossmember.


STEP 7

Use a center punch and make a light divot at the center of each marked location. Using a 1/4" diameter drill bit, drill all the way through deck plank and through the top of each hat channel at the marked locations.

REMEMBER, NEVER DRILL THROUGH SQUARE TUBE CROSSMEMBERS.



STEP 8

Using a 7/16" diameter drill bit, drill through ONLY the top of the deck plank where you just drilled holes. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM FLANGE OF YOUR DECK PLANKS.


STEP 9

Locate the 1/4" x 3/4" Allen bolts from your hardware kit. Use a 3/16" Allen wrench to insert a bolt through each of the holes you just drilled. DO NOT INSTALL NUTS YET.



STEP 10

From under the boat, use your 11 gauge drill bit to drill through the holes you made in step 4, and drill through the bottom flange of the deck plank. You may find it necessary to move your C-clamps so they both hold the plank securely for drilling and not interfere with your drill. You may also find it necessary to use a 90-degree power drill for this operation.

Remove the clamps, remove the deck plank, pull the bolts out, and debur all the holes you drilled in the frame and deck plank. Clamp your plank back into postion and insert the Allen bolts back into the outer holes in the plank and frame.

STEP 11

Locate the 1/4" flange lock nuts in your hardware kit and LOOSELY install a nut onto each 1/4" x 3/4" Allen bolt. You will tighten the nuts and bolts completely after the next step as you may have to wiggle the deck plank a little to align rivet holes.

STEP 12

Using your rivet gun, install one of the included 3/16" rivets in each of the holes drilled from under the boat in step 10. If using a powered rivet gun, pull down at each crossmember location and then install the rivet. If you are using a manual rivet installation tool, move a clamp to that location before installing the rivet. With all the rivets installed in deck plank 1, fully tighten the Allen bolts and nuts installed in the prior step.

STEP 13

Referencing your decking fastener diagram, draw a line across each hat channel crossmember where you have a blue square shown for deck plank 2. Remember, not every crossmember gets marked for this. Mark lines 1/2" and 7 1/2" from the inner edge of deck plank 1 in the applicable positions, as shown below. Double check your positioning against your diagram. Use your center punch to make a divot at the center of the hat channel on your markings, and drill through the channels with you 11 gauge drill bit. Debur the holes.


STEP 14

Place deck plank 2 onto your frame and against deck plank 1. Adjust the position as necessary so that the ends the two planks are even. If working on a single-nose boat (6'x11' or 6'x14' model), be sure that the deck plank is aligned with the edge of the square tube crossmember. Install 3 ratchet straps around the two planks, and install and 3 C-clamps. Gently tighten the ratchet straps so that the sides of the two planks are securely together, but the plank doesn't bulge upward. The bottom of the plank should remain securely against the crossmembers. You will need to use a rubber or plastic mallet, or a steel hammer with a block of wood, to tap the outer edge of plank 2 (edge touching plank 1) down securely against the frame.

From under the boat, drill up through the holes drilled in the hat channels with your 11 gauge drill bit and through the bottom flange of deck plank 2. ONLY DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM FLANGE OF THE DECK PLANK. Remove deck plank 2, debur the holes in the plank, and clamp and strap it back into position. You'll want to use a loose rivet or two to align your holes. As before, tap the outer edge of plank 2 down against the frame to ensure that it is properly seated.



STEP 15

From under the craft, install rivets in every hole drilled in the prior step to securely fasten deck plank 2. Remove your clamps and loosen your ratchet straps.

STEP 16

At this point you're a pro at this. Referencing your decking fastener diagram, repeat steps 13 through 15 one plank at a time for planks #3 through #8. Most importantly, remember that you MUST install rivets only where indicated on your diagram, and rivet holes are always 1/2" and 7 1/2" away from the prior installed deck plank.

STEP 17

You are now onto the last deck plank. On every hat channel crossmember, mark a line 1/2" from the edge of deck plank 8, center punch at the center of the crossmember, and drill through it with your 11 gauge drill bit. Debur your holes.


STEP 18

Place deck plank 9 onto the boat. Strap and clamp it into position. Tap the inner edge of the plank down securely against the frame. Just like with the first deck plank in step 6, make a mark centered above each hat channel that is 5/8" in from the outer edge of the plank. Use your center punch to make a divet at each marked location.




STEP 19

Using your 1/4" drill bit, drill all the way through the deck plank and through the top of each of your hat channels. DO NOT drill through square tube crossmembers.

STEP 20

As with deck plank 1, use your 7/16" drill bit to drill through ONLY the top of deck plank 9. DO NOT DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM FLANGE OF THE DECK PLANK WITH YOUR 7/16" DRILL BIT.

Insert 1/4" x 3/4" Allen bolts into each of the bolt holes in the outer edge of the deck plank. DO NOT INSTALL NUTS YET.


STEP 21

From under your craft, use your 11 gauge drill bit to drill through the holes made in step 17, and drill up through the bottom flange of deck plank 9. ONLY DRILL THROUGH THE BOTTOM FLANGE OF THE PLANK.

Remove deck plank 9, remove the Allen bolts, debur the new holes in the plank and the frame, and reinstall it with the clamps and straps. Once again, be sure to tap the inner edge of the plank down securely against the frame. Insert the 1/4" x 3/4" Allen bolts back in the holes and loosely install the nuts.

STEP 22

From under the craft, install rivets in all the rivet holes drilled in step 17. Securely tighten all the 1/4" x 3/4" Allen bolts and flange lock nuts. Your last deck plank is now installed!



STEP 23

If you are NOT intending to install carpet or vinyl flooring, press a 7/16" plastic plug into each of the 7/16" holes in the top of the deck. If you are installing carpet or vinyl flooring, the plugs are not required. If you are keeping the deck bare, use a little bit of lacquer thinner and wipe off all the numbers and markings you drew on the deck planks.

Your decking installation is complete!