REQUIRED TOOLS

The frame and pontoon assembly for our 4'x8' single-nose pontoon boat requires a few basic tools, as well as a couple specialized tools. Below we have provided a list of everything that you'll need, as well as part numbers and links to where you can get the specialized tools from McMaster, which is a reasonably priced industrial supplier. Click on the part number to view the item on the McMaster website. Many customers will already have the majority of these tools, if not all of them. These tools (other than perhaps the transfer punch) should be stocked at your local home supply or hardware store as well.

3/8" transfer punch McMaster PN: 3374A32
Center punch McMaster PN: 3451A31
3/8" drive ratchet
9/16", 3/8" drive socket
3/8" drive ratchet extension
9/16" box wrench
Electric drill
3/8" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A36
Countersink bit (optional) McMaster PN: 2846A39 - ALTERNATIVE
Carpenter's square
Tape measure
2 saw horses
2 C-clamps
2 ratchet straps
Steel hammer
Rubber or plastic hammer (optional)
TORQUE WRENCH SEE NOTE




STEP 1

Place one of the pontoon main beam extrusions across two saw horses. The main beam is the aluminum tube in your frame system that has a "T" shaped cross section with two slots on the top. Place the extrusion so that the slots face down and use two C-clamps to clamp it to the top of your two saw horses.

FLOAT ORIENTATION - FOAM FILLING PLUGS

Each of the straight floats (blunt end floats) in your boat kit have a foam filling plug on the top flat portion. This plug is offset to ensure that the frame seats properly in the float. During assembly of your pontoons, be aware of which side of the frame main beam you are placing these plugs. When building your first pontoon assembly, put all the plugs on one side of the assembly. When building the second pontoon, put the plugs on the other side of the assembly. When the two pontoon assemblies are built, this will allow the plugs to be facing inward on the boat. This is purely for aesthetics, and simply makes for a better looking craft.

STEP 2

Place one of the straight floats (blunt end floats) on an end of the main beam. Tap the float into position so that the end of the float is even with the end of the main beam. A rubber or plastic hammer can be used for this. Place a ratchet strap around the float and the main beam to temporarily hold it in position and ensure that the float is properly seated on the frame member.

STEP 3

Place another straight float onto the main beam and install a ratchet strap around it and the main beam. When placing the float on the main beam, tap it securely against the previously installed float. Verify that the first float is still even with the end of the main beam and adjust as necessary. Verify that your straps are secured.

STEP 4

Place a nose cone float on the front of the pontoon assembly as shown. Due to the shape of the nose cone, you will not be able to place a ratchet strap over it.

STEP 5

Using a 3/8" transfer punch, go down BOTH sides of the pontoon assembly to mark the position of each bolt hole. To do this, insert the punch into EVERY bolt hole and give it a solid tap with your hammer. Don't smash it; just give it a solid tap. The ratchet straps will hold the straight floats in position for this, but the nose cone will have to be held in position by hand when you do this.

STEP 6

Remove the ratchet straps. Before removing the floats, number the positions of the floats on the main beam as shown. You can use a piece of masking tape to write on or you can use a marker to write on the floats and main beams. If using a marker, lacquer paint thinner will remove the ink after assembly, and the paint thinner will not hurt the plastic or the aluminum. Remove the floats and unclamp the main beams from the saw horses.

STEP 7

Using a standard center punch, make the marks you made with the transfer punch in step 5 more pronounce. This will make the holes easier to drill in the next step.

STEP 8

Using a SHARP (prohibits wandering of the bit) 3/8" diameter drill bit, drill through ONE WALL of the main beam at each marked position. DO NOT drill all the way through both sides of the main beam during this operation. Drill through every marked position on one side of the part, flip it, and drill through every marked position on the other side of the part.

For this operation, you can use a hand-held drill, but we find it much easier and quicker to use a drill press. If you have a drill press, you will need to use a spacer block, such as a piece of 2" x 4" lumber, to make the material surface level. If using a hand-held drill, be careful to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the surface you are drilling through. You can't undrill holes, so take your time.

After drilling the holes, they must be deburred. We like to use a countersink drill bit for this, but a little bit of sand paper or a file will do the trick as well.

STEP 9

Clamp your main beam back onto your saw horses and place the floats back onto the main beam, matching up the numbers you marked in step 6. Place the ratchet straps back over the floats and tap the floats into position so that the holes line up. DO NOT INSERT THE BOLTS YET.

STEP 10

With a 3/8" drill bit mounted in your hand-held drill, start at the back end of the pontoon assembly and drill through the rearmost bolt hole in the float and all the way through both sides of the main beam. When doing this, go slowly, as your drill bit should only be clearing chips and verifying hole alignment, not drilling a new hole. Insert one of the 3/8" x 4 1/2" hex bolts with a 1" outside diameter fender washer over it, and tap it through the hole with a hammer. We prefer to use a plastic hammer for this. Drill through the next hole and insert a bolt with fender washer. Do this until every float has bolts installed in both holes. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET.

When building the second pontoon assembly, be sure to install the bolts from the opposite side of the pontoon. The intention is to have the bolts for each pontoon assembly pointing toward the center of the boat, so the bolts will be driven in from the opposite side of the foam filling caps. This is purely for aesthetics.


STEP 11

Using a rag, remove any chips from the exposed threads of the bolts you just inserted through the floats. Place a 1" diameter fender washer over each of the bolts. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET. Using the included Loctite capsules (blue medium strength Loctite type 242), apply a little bit of the thread locker to each of the bolts. Your kit has 3 capsules for every 4 float bolts, so more than enough is included. The Loctite lubricates the threads, makes the nuts more secure, and is 100% required. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

Thread 3/8" lock nuts onto each of the bolts and tighten the nuts until the mounting flanges on the floats start to flex inward. We do not have a torque specification beyond this.

Remove the ratchet straps and C-clamps holding the pontoon assembly to your saw horses. Place the pontoon assembly aside.


STEP 12

Repeat steps 1 through 11 to build your second pontoon assembly. Remember to place the foam filling plugs on the opposite side of your main beam for the second pontoon assembly. Place your two pontoon assemblies on a flat surface so that the foam filling plugs face inward on the boat. Adjust the placement so that the two pontoon assemblies are about 45" apart on center.

CROSSMEMBER PLACEMENT DIAGRAM:

Moving forward, you will need to reference the crossmember placement diagram to the right. We understand that you may arrange your crossmembers in an alternate manner, but this is our recommended configuration, especially if you have purchased motor mounts with your boat kit.

The crossmember placement diagram has "Rear Set" noted on 2 of the crossmembers on the rear end of the craft. If you purchased a motor mount or two (transoms) with your boat kit, there will be 2 crossmembers in your frame system that have "Rear Set" written on them. The rear set of hat channels will have bolt holes for mounting your transom or transoms and must go in the indicated position at the rear of the vessel. If you did not purchase a transom with your boat kit, all the hat channels will be identical and any hat channel can go in the rear set position.

STEP 13

Each hat channel crossmember requires a set of 8 square nuts, bolts, and washers for installation. Slide 2 3/8" square nuts for each crossmember into each channel of your main beams and place them in the approximate positions of the crossmembers shown on your diagram. Each pontoon main beam will have 6 groups of 4 nuts.


FRAME & ACCESSORY FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Each of the 3/8" diameter bolts for the frame crossmembers and accessories (transoms, lift plates, tie-down plates, trailer winching plates, etc.) require the proper amount of torque to ensure that they are fastened securely and retain full strength. The proper amount of torque for all 3/8" nuts and bolts from this point forward is 55 foot pounds. DO NOT TORQUE BEYOND THIS SPECIFICATION. From this point forward when we say to fully torque or fully tighten a bolt or nut, we are referring to the 55 foot pound specification, and it is good practice to draw a line on the head of the bolt with a marker after to indicate it has been torqued properly. If you do not own or have access to a torque wrench, be careful not to apply too much torque to the bolt heads. If you do not own one, or do not want to purchase one for your assembly, many autopart stores will allow you to borrow one at little or no cost.

STEP 14

Loosely bolt one hat channel crossmember to each end of your pontoon assemblies using the 3/8" x 7/8" hex bolts, 3/8" lock washers, and 3/8" SAE flat washers in the configuration shown. If you purchased a motor mount or two, select a rear set crossmember for the rear end of the craft. You will have to align the square nuts in your main beams to line up with the bolt holes in your crossmembers. Adjust the two hat channels so they are even with the ends of the main beams and use a square to ensure that one main beam is square with either hat channel. Completely tighten the hat channel bolts on one side of your boat. Leave the hat channel bolts on the opposite side of the boat finger tight for now.


NOTE:

Crossmembers have "A" written on one end. Be sure to place the marked ends of the crossmembers on the same side of the boat (doesn't matter which side). When the hole pattern is machined in each crossmember, this is the end that is referenced on the machine cutting the holes. Placing the "A" end of all the crossmembers on the same side of the boat ensures perfect alignment of all the mounting holes.

STEP 15

Loosely bolt on all the remaining crossmembers and place them as shown on your crossmember placement diagram. Rear set crossmembers go next to each other if you purchased a transom or two. If you did not purchase a transom, double check the placement of all your crossmembers, tighen all the hat channel bolts completely, and you're done! If you did purchase a motor mount or two, completely tighten all but the rear set crossmember bolts and move onto the next step.

STEP 16

Select the 3/8" x 1 1/4" hex bolts and 3/8" SAE flat washers from the hardware bag labeled "transom mounting hardware" or similar, and insert a bolt with flat washer through each of the inner holes in your rear set crossmembers. Line up the hanging bolts with the holes in the mounting tube of your motor mount and hold the transom in position. You will require a clamp to do this if you don't have a helper. Using a socket with an extension, install a 3/8" flange lock nut on each bolt hanging into your transom tube. The extension allows you to reach into the tube from under the boat. If you purchased two motor mounts, bolt both on the same way. Tighten and then double-check every nut and bolt holding your transom or transoms.

Completely tighten all of your rear set crossmember bolts and your assembly is complete!

YOU'RE DONE!

The frame and floats assembly for your tiny pontoon boat is now complete!