REQUIRED TOOLS

The frame and pontoon assembly for our 6'x10' dual-nose tank boat requires a few basic tools, as well as a couple specialized tools. Below we have provided a list of everything that you'll need, as well as part numbers and links to where you can get the specialized tools from McMaster, which is a reasonably priced industrial supplier. Click on the part number to view the item on the McMaster website. Many customers will already have the majority of these tools, if not all of them. These tools (other than perhaps the transfer punch) should be stocked at your local home supply or hardware store as well.

3/8" transfer punch McMaster PN: 3374A32
Center punch McMaster PN: 3451A31
3/8" drive ratchet
9/16", 3/8" drive socket
3/8" drive ratchet extension
9/16" box wrench
Electric drill
3/8" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A36
Countersink bit (optional) McMaster PN: 2846A39 - ALTERNATIVE
Carpenter's square
Tape measure
2 saw horses
2 C-clamps
2 ratchet straps
Steel hammer
Rubber or plastic hammer (optional)
TORQUE WRENCH SEE NOTE




STEP 1

Place one of the pontoon main beam extrusions across two saw horses. The main beam is the aluminum tube in your frame system that has a "T" shaped cross section with two slots on the top. Place the extrusion so that the slots face down and use two C-clamps to clamp it to the top of your two saw horses.

FLOAT ORIENTATION - FOAM FILLING PLUGS

Each of the straight floats (blunt end floats) in your boat kit have a foam filling plug on the top flat portion. This plug is offset to ensure that the frame seats properly in the float. During assembly of each pontoon, orient the straight floats so that the plugs are on the same side of the pontoon assembly. Later on, when the two pontoon assemblies are built, the plugs for the two straight floats will face inward on the boat. This is purely for aesthetics, and simply makes for a better looking craft.

STEP 2

Place two straight floats on the main beam and butt the two floats together. Center the two floats on the main beam and place ratchet straps around them. Double check that the two floats are centered, adjust as necessary, and tighten your ratchet straps.

STEP 3

Place nose cone floats on both ends of the main beam and push the nose cones against the straight floats as shown. You may have to tap the floats down onto the main beam as the fitment can be tight. Due to the shape of the nose cones, you will not be able to place ratchet straps over them.

STEP 4

Using a 3/8" transfer punch, go down BOTH sides of the pontoon assembly to mark the position of each bolt hole. To do this, insert the punch into EVERY bolt hole and give it a solid tap with your hammer. Don't smash it; just give it a solid tap. The ratchet straps will hold the straight floats in position for this, but the nose cones will have to be held in position by hand when you do this.

STEP 5

Remove the ratchet straps. Before removing the floats, number the positions of the floats on the main beam as shown. You can use a piece of masking tape to write on or you can use a marker to write on the floats and main beams. If using a marker, lacquer paint thinner will remove the ink after assembly, and the paint thinner will not hurt the plastic or the aluminum. Remove the floats and unclamp the main beams from the saw horses.

STEP 6

Using a standard center punch, make the marks you made with the transfer punch in step 4 more pronounce. This will make the holes easier to drill in the next step.

STEP 7

Using a SHARP (prohibits wandering of the bit) 3/8" diameter drill bit, drill through ONE WALL of the main beam at each marked position. DO NOT drill all the way through both sides of the main beam during this operation. Drill through every marked position on one side of the part, flip it, and drill through every marked position on the other side of the part.

For this operation, you can use a hand-held drill, but we find it much easier and quicker to use a drill press. If you have a drill press, you will need to use a spacer block, such as a piece of 2" x 4" lumber, to make the material surface level. If using a hand-held drill, be careful to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the surface you are drilling through. You can't undrill holes, so take your time.

After drilling the holes, they must be deburred. We like to use a countersink drill bit for this, but a little bit of sand paper or a file will do the trick as well.

STEP 8

Clamp your main beam back onto your saw horses and place the floats back onto the main beam, matching up the numbers you marked in step 5. Place the ratchet straps back over the straight floats and tap the floats into position so that the holes line up. DO NOT INSERT THE BOLTS YET.

STEP 9

With a 3/8" drill bit mounted in your hand-held drill, start at one end of the pontoon assembly and drill through one bolt hole in the float and all the way through both sides of the main beam. When doing this, go slowly, as your drill bit should only be clearing chips and verifying hole alignment, not drilling a new hole. Insert one of the 3/8" x 4 1/2" hex bolts with a 1" outside diameter fender washer over it, and tap it through the hole with a hammer. We prefer to use a plastic hammer for this. Drill through the next hole and insert a bolt with fender washer. Do this until every float has bolts installed in both holes. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET.

When building your pontoon assembly, be sure to install the bolts from the opposite side as the foam filling plugs. The intention is to have the foam filling plugs and the float bolts facing the center of the craft. This is purely for aesthetics.


STEP 10

Using a rag, remove any chips from the exposed threads of the bolts you just inserted through the floats. Place a 1" diameter fender washer over each of the bolts. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET. Using the included Loctite capsules (blue medium strength Loctite type 242), apply a little bit of the thread locker to each of the bolts. Your kit has 3 capsules for every 4 float bolts, so more than enough is included. The Loctite lubricates the threads, makes the nuts more secure, and is 100% required. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

Thread 3/8" lock nuts onto each of the bolts and tighten the nuts until the mounting flanges on the floats start to flex inward. We do not have a torque specification beyond this.

Remove the ratchet straps and C-clamps holding the pontoon assembly to your saw horses. Place the pontoon assembly aside.


STEP 11

Repeat steps 1 through 10 to build your second pontoon assembly. Place your two pontoon assemblies on a flat surface so that the foam filling plugs face inward on the boat. Adjust the placement so that the two pontoon assemblies are about 48" apart on center.

CROSSMEMBER PLACEMENT DIAGRAMS:

Moving forward, you will have to reference the crossmember placement diagram to the right. There are 6 crossmembers in your frame kit, and they will be labeled as shown on the diagram. The crossmembers have hole patterns to attach specific parts. If possible, print the diagram or have it handy on a mobile device as you will need to reference it throughout the remaining assembly. During the remaining assembly, parts are mostly self-locating, and most bolts will remain no more than finger tight until all the components are attached.

STEP 12

Each hat channel crossmember requires a set of 8 square nuts, bolts, and washers for installation. Slide 2 3/8" square nuts for each crossmember into each channel of your main beams and place them in the approximate positions of the crossmembers shown on your diagram. Each pontoon main beam will have 6 groups of 4 nuts.


FRAME & ACCESSORY FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Each of the 3/8" diameter bolts for frame crossmembers, tank brackets, and motor mounts require the proper amount of torque to ensure that they are fastened securely and retain full strength. The proper amount of torque for all 3/8" nuts and bolts from this point forward is 55 foot pounds. DO NOT TORQUE BEYOND THIS SPECIFICATION. From this point forward when we say to fully torque or fully tighten a bolt or nut, we are referring to the 55 foot pound specification, and it is good practice to draw a line on the head of the bolt with a marker after to indicate it has been torqued properly. If you do not own or have access to a torque wrench, be careful not to apply too much torque to the bolt heads. If you do not own one, or do not want to purchase one for your assembly, many autopart stores will allow you to borrow one at little or no cost.

STEP 13

Loosely bolt the crossmembers labeled "RS1" and "FCM" across your two pontoon assemblies using the 3/8" x 7/8" hex bolts, 3/8" lock washers, and 3/8" SAE flat washers in the configuration shown. You will have to align the square nuts in your main beams to line up with the bolt holes in your crossmembers. Adjust the two hat channels so they are even with the ends of the main beams and use a square to ensure that one main beam is square with either hat channel. Completely tighten the hat channel bolts on one side of your boat. Leave the hat channel bolts on the opposite side of the boat finger tight for now.


NOTE:

Crossmembers have "A" written on one end. Be sure to place the marked ends of the crossmembers on the same side of the boat (doesn't matter which side). When the hole pattern is machined in each crossmember, this is the end that is referenced on the machine cutting the holes. Placing the "A" end of all the crossmembers on the same side of the boat ensures perfect alignment of all the mounting holes.

STEP 14

Referencing your crossmember placement diagram, loosely bolt on the 4 remaining crossmembers in the positions indicated. Be sure to match the labels on the hat channels with the labels on your diagram. Leave the bolts very loose for now.

STEP 15

Select 3/8" x 1 1/4" hex bolts and 3/8" SAE flat washers from your harware kit and insert a bolt with flat washer through the remaining holes in the RS1 and RS2 crossmembers. The four centermost holes in the RS2 crossmember don't get used in this step, but they receive the same hardware for the next step.

Line up the hanging bolts with the holes in the mounting tubes of your motor mounts (transoms) and hold the transoms in position. You will require a clamp to do this if you don't have a helper. Using a socket with an extension, install a 3/8" flange lock nut on each bolt hanging into your transom tubes. The extension allows you to reach into the tube from under the boat. Fully tighten all the bolts for your transoms and the two rear set crossmembers.

STEP 16

You now need to assemble the tank mounting bracket for your boat. The bracket consists of two hanger tubes, two U-brackets, and hardware. The hanger tubes are identical, as are the U-brackets. Select 8 more 3/8" x 1 1/4" hex bolts, 3/8" SAE flat washers, and 3/8" flange lock nuts. Insert a bolt with a washer through the outside of each U-bracket, and bolt the two hanger tubes between the two U-brackets. The set of 8 small holes at the ends of each hanger tube faces updward, and the set of 4 small holes that line up with the U-brackets face outward to accept the 3/8" bolts as shown. Using a socket with an extension, insert the 3/8" flange locknuts through the central large holes in the hanger tubes and thread them onto the bolts. You'll have to tilt the bracket assembly on its side to do this. Tighten the bolts slightly (just enough for the nuts to not fall off when the assembly is mounted under the boat in the next step).

STEP 17

Insert 3/8" x 1 1/4" hex bolt with 3/8" SAE flat washer into every remaining hole in the crossmembers on your boat. There will be a total of 16 bolts that are not yet attached to anything.

Slide the tank bracket assembly under your boat and and align the holes in the hanger tubes with the hanging bolts. Lift the tank bracket up against the bottom of your boat and install the 3/8" flange lock nuts onto the bolts with your socket and extension. If you dont have a helper, a ratchet strap is a great way to lift the bracket into place.

At this point, you can fully tighten all the tank bracket bolts and all the remaining hat channel bolts. When we do this, we like to use a marker to draw a line on the head of every bolt after it has been tightened. This way, we know for certain that we didn't miss any bolts.

STEP 18

Place your plastic tank into the tank support bracket and install the included ratchet straps over the tank, hooking into the eyelets on the U-brackets. You can trim the length of the ratchet straps if you choose to, but you'll want to melt the ends of the strap with a lighter or a torch to prohibit fraying if you do.

Assembly of your tank boat is complete!