REQUIRED TOOLS

The frame and pontoon assembly for our 7'x12' and 8'x12' dual-nose pontoon boats with 27" floats requires a few basic tools, as well as a couple specialized tools. Below we have provided a list of everything that you'll need, as well as part numbers and links to where you can get the specialized tools from McMaster, which is a reasonably priced industrial supplier. Click on the part number to view the item on the McMaster website. Many customers will already have the majority of these tools, if not all of them. These tools (other than perhaps the transfer punch) should be stocked at your local home supply or hardware store as well.

1/2" transfer punch McMaster PN: 3374A41
Center punch McMaster PN: 3451A31
1/2" drive ratchet
3/4", 1/2" drive deep socket
3/8" drive ratchet
9/16", 3/8" drive socket
3/8" drive ratchet extension
3/4" box wrench
9/16" box wrench
Electric drill
1/4" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A27
1/2" drill bit McMaster PN: 8870A45
Countersink bit (optional) McMaster PN: 2846A39 - ALTERNATIVE
Carpenter's square
Tape measure
2 saw horses
4 C-clamps
3-4 ratchet straps
Steel hammer
Rubber or plastic hammer (optional)
TORQUE WRENCH SEE NOTE




STEP 1

Place two of the pontoon main beam extrusions across two saw horses. The main beams are the aluminum tubes that have a "T" shaped cross section with two slots on the top. Position the main beams so that the slots face down and are about 12" on center. Use a square to ensure that the ends are even. Clamp the two frame members to your saw horses.

STEP 2

Place two straight floats on the main beams and butt the two floats together. You may have to adjust the spacing of your main beams for this. Center the two floats on the main beams and place ratchet straps around them. Double check that the two floats are centered, adjust as necessary, and tighten your ratchet straps. Use your square to verify that the ends of your main beams are still even.

STEP 3

Place a nose cone float on both ends of the pontoon assembly as shown. Due to the shape of the nose cones, you will not be able to place ratchet straps over them.

STEP 4

Using a 1/2" transfer punch, go down both sides of both sets of mounting channels on the plastic floats and use the punch with a hammer to mark EVERY bolt hole position through the molded-in bolt holes in the floats. Don't smash it; just give the punch a solid tap. You will have to do this from both the outside set of holes and the inside set of holes. This means that you'll have to go under the pontoon assembly on your saw horses to mark the inner holes. It's inconvenient, but 100% necessary.

STEP 5

Remove the ratchet straps. Before removing the floats, number the positions of the floats on the main beams as shown. Number the floats and main beams on both sides of the pontoon assembly. Label position 1, 2, 3, and 4 on one side and 5,6,7, and 8 on the other. This ensures that you don't mix up the positions of the floats after you drill holes. You can use a piece of masking tape to write on or you can use a marker to write on the floats and main beams. If using a marker, lacquer paint thinner will remove the ink after assembly, and the paint thinner will not hurt the plastic or the aluminum. Remove the floats and unclamp the main beams from the saw horses.

STEP 6

Using a standard center punch, make the marks you made with the transfer punch in step 4 more pronounce. This will make the holes easier to drill in the next step.

STEP 7

Using a SHARP (prohibits wandering of the bit) 1/4" diameter drill bit, drill through ONE WALL of each main beam at each marked position. DO NOT drill all the way through both sides of the main beams during this operation. Drill through every marked position on one side of each part, flip it, and drill through every marked position on the other side. After drilling all the 1/4" holes in both main beams, use a 1/2" diameter drill bit to drill through every 1/4" hole. Once again, only drill through one wall at a time for each hole position.

For this operation, you can use a hand-held drill, but we find it much easier and quicker to use a drill press. If you have a drill press, you will need to use a spacer block, such as a piece of 2" x 4" lumber, to make the material surface level. If using a hand-held drill, be careful to keep the drill bit perpendicular to the surface you are drilling through. You can't undrill holes, so take your time.

After drilling the holes, they must be deburred. We like to use a countersink drill bit for this, but a little bit of sand paper or a file will do the trick as well.

STEP 8

Clamp the main beams back onto the saw horses in the same orientation as before and place the floats back onto the main beams, matching up the numbers you marked in step 5. Place the ratchet straps back over the central straight floats and tap the floats into position so that the holes line up. DO NOT INSERT THE BOLTS YET.

STEP 9

With a 1/2" drill bit mounted in your hand-held drill, start at one end of the pontoon assembly and drill through one bolt hole. Drill all the way through both sides of the main beam on that side of the float. You will be drilling inward from the side of the float. When doing this, go slowly, as your drill bit should only be clearing chips and verifying hole alignment, not drilling a new hole.

Insert one of the 1/2" x 5" hex bolts with a 1/2" flat washer from the outside position, and tap it through the hole with a hammer. We prefer to use a plastic hammer for this. Drill through the next hole and insert a bolt with washer. Do this on both sides of the pontoon assembly until every float has bolts installed through each hole on both sides of the float. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET.


STEP 10

Remove the ratchet straps and flip the pontoon so that it's right side up. As the float will be heavy at this point, please be careful when doing this. When we build boats at Tiny Pontoon Boats, this is when we remove the pontoon assembly from the saw horses and place it on a couple pieces of scrap carpeting on our shop floor. We find it much easier to complete this step with the pontoon on the floor.

Using a rag, remove any chips from the exposed threads of the bolts you just inserted through the floats. Place 1/2" flat washers over each of the bolts. DO NOT INSTALL THE NUTS YET. Using the included Loctite capsules (blue medium strength Loctite type 242), apply a little bit of the thread locker to each of the bolts. Your kit has 3 capsules for every 4 float bolts, so more than enough is included. The Loctite lubricates the threads, makes the nuts more secure, and is 100% required. DO NOT SKIP THIS STEP.

Thread 1/2" lock nuts onto each of the bolts and tighten the nuts until the mounting flanges on the floats start to flex inward. We do not have a torque specification beyond this.


STEP 11

Place the completed pontoon aside and repeat steps 1 through 10 to build your second pontoon assembly. Place your two pontoon assemblies on a flat surface so that they are about 65" on center for 7' wide boats (69" if you purchased a 7' wide kit with our aluminum decking packge) and 74" on center for 8' wide boats.

CROSSMEMBER PLACEMENT DIAGRAM:

Moving forward, you will need to reference the crossmember placement diagram to the right. We understand that you may arrange your crossmembers in an alternate manner, but this is our recommended configuration, especially if you have purchased motor mounts with your boat kit.

The crossmember placement diagram has "Rear Set" noted on 2 of the crossmembers on one end of the craft. If you purchased a motor mount or two (transoms) with your boat kit, there will be 2 crossmembers in your frame system that have "Rear Set" written on them. The rear set of hat channels will have bolt holes for mounting your transom or transoms and must go in the indicated position at one end of the boat. If you did not purchase a transom with your boat kit, all the hat channels will be identical and any hat channel can go in the rear set position.

NOTE:
If you purchased a set of lifting brackets with your platform kit, the frontmost and rearmost crossmembers are to be placed 4" in from the ends of the main beams, not even with the ends of the main beams as shown moving forward (diagrams and pictures). This allows space for the lifting brackets to be bolted to the pontoon assemblies.

STEP 12

Each hat channel crossmember requires 16 sets of nuts, bolts, and washers for installation. Slide 2 square nuts into each main beam slot for each crossmember shown on your crossmember placement diagram. You will be sliding a total of 16 square nuts into each main beam slot. Position the nuts into the approximate locations of the crossmembers shown on your diagram.

FRAME & ACCESSORY FASTENER TORQUE SPECIFICATIONS

Each of the 3/8" diameter bolts for the frame crossmembers and accessories (transoms, lift plates, tie-down plates, trailer winching plates, etc.) require the proper amount of torque to ensure that they are fastened securely and retain full strength. The proper amount of torque for all 3/8" nuts and bolts from this point forward is 55 foot pounds. DO NOT TORQUE BEYOND THIS SPECIFICATION. From this point forward when we say to fully torque or fully tighten a bolt or nut, we are referring to the 55 foot pound specification, and it is good practice to draw a line on the head of the bolt with a marker after to indicate it has been torqued properly. If you do not own or have access to a torque wrench, be careful not to apply too much torque to the bolt heads. If you do not own one, or do not want to purchase one for your assembly, many autopart stores will allow you to borrow one at little or no cost.

STEP 13

Loosely bolt one hat channel crossmember across each end of your pontoon assemblies using the 3/8" x 7/8" hex bolts, 3/8" lock washers, and 3/8" SAE flat washers in the configuration shown. If you purchased a motor mount or two, select a rear set crossmember for one of end of the craft. You will have to align the square nuts in your main beams to line up with the bolt holes in your crossmembers. Adjust the two hat channels so they are even with the ends of the main beams and use a square to ensure that one main beam is square with either hat channel. Completely tighten the hat channel bolts on one side of your boat. Leave the hat channel bolts on the opposite side of the boat finger tight for now.

NOTE:
If you purchased a set of lifting brackets with your platform kit, the frontmost and rearmost hat channel crossmembers must be placed 4" from the ends of the main beams, not even with the ends as shown.


NOTE:

Crossmembers have "A" written on one end. Be sure to place the marked ends of the crossmembers on the same side of the boat (doesn't matter which side). When the hole pattern is machined in each crossmember, this is the end that is referenced on the machine cutting the holes. Placing the "A" end of all the crossmembers on the same side of the boat ensures perfect alignment of all the mounting holes.

STEP 14

Loosely bolt on all the remaining crossmembers and place them as shown on your crossmember placement diagram. Rear set crossmembers go next to each other if you purchased a transom or two. If you did not purchase a transom, double check the placement of all your crossmembers, tighen all the hat channel bolts completely, and you're done! If you did purchase a motor mount or two, completely tighten all but the rear set crossmember bolts and move onto the next step.

TRANSOM INSTALLATION

With your frame assembled, the next step is to install the decking or transom. If you purchased our aluminum decking package with your boat kit, the final installation of your transom happens AFTER the decking is installed. Decking installation instructions are listed HERE. If you are using marine grade plywood for decking, you can install the transom before the plywood is installed.

Select the 3/8" x 1 1/4" hex bolts and 3/8" SAE flat washers from the hardware bag labeled "transom mounting hardware" or similar, and insert a bolt with flat washer through each of the inner holes in your rear set crossmembers. Line up the hanging bolts with the holes in the mounting tube of your motor mount and hold the transom in position. You will require a clamp to do this if you don't have a helper. Using a socket with an extension, install a 3/8" flange lock nut on each bolt hanging into your transom tube. The extension allows you to reach into the tube from under the boat. If you purchased two motor mounts, bolt both on the same way. Tighten and then double-check every nut and bolt holding your transom or transoms.

Completely tighten all of your rear set crossmember bolts and your assembly is complete!


YOU'RE DONE!

The frame and floats assembly for your dual-nose pontoon platform is now complete!